Israel!

Our time in Poland ended Monday night, but it was after an eventful and moving day.Tykocin Synagogue

We started Monday by davening at the Tykochin synagogue, where Jews once prayed in this thriving shtetl, and then made our way to the Lupochova Forest, where the Jews of Tykochin and some surrounding villages were marched, told to line up along pits, shot by a firing squad, and then buried in mass graves.  Three graves were dug, and there are memorials now that recognize those who were murdered.

Lupochova Forest

Our time in Poland ended at the Treblinka death camp, which was completely destroyed by Nazis as the war was coming to a close. While no physical structures remain from the camp, there are a number of memorials in the places where the different buildings used to be, as well as a huge expanse that is covered in large symbolic rocks to memorialize the 800,000-120,000 that were were murdered there.  Some of the rocks recognize particular towns where many Jews were brought from.

Treblinka Stones

We had a ceremony led by the Usyers, where they read selected readings and poems that were moving to them, and we ended by singing Hatikvah, The Hope, that one day we might be free to live in peace in our holy land.  We surprised the Usyers by giving them letters that their parents had written to them specifically for this occasion, and it was extremely moving to see the emotions they felt and the thought of what might be contained within those letters even brought tears to my eyes.  Some found out they had family who at one time lived in different towns in Poland, and tried to find those names written on the stones.

Monday night, we left for Israel, and arrived Tuesday only to find that 15 of bags, as well as some 90+ Ramah bags, were not put on the plane.  We had an emergency shopping trip for those of us (including me) who did not have their suitcases, and overall had a pretty relaxing first day.

Tel Maresha
Wednesday was our first full day in Israel.  We started the day with an archaeological dig at Tel Maresha, where we helped excavate a real historical site.  Due to the extreme number of potential archaeological sites in Israel, archaeologists often use volunteers and tour groups to help them in their excavating.  We were able to find a number of pottery shards, animal bones, and even some charcoal.  It was a really cool activity, and the archaeology loving boy in me had a ton of fun.

We then went for a swim in the pool at Beit Guvrin, which was exactly what was needed for a 90 degree+ day.  The day ended with a seminar on the Arab-Israeli Conflict with Neil Lazarus.

Today, Thursday, we started our learning about ancient times with exploration of the second Temple period.  We started the day exploring the Southern Wall of the Temple, and learning about the daily life at the Temple, and stopped into the Davidson center for a break and a movie explaining more about life in the second Temple period.Gate in Jerusalem

We briefly greeted the Kotel, or the Western Wall, and the USYers had a chance to write notes if they wanted.  We explored the remnants of the Herodian mansions that lie underneath the streets of the old city, and learned about the warring factions of the time, the Sadducees and the Pharisees.

Our day trip ended with a visit to the Israel Museum, where we saw the Heliodorus Stele, an ancient document written on stone from around the time of the Maccabees that was actually found at Tel Maresha.  We continued to see a few more artifacts, browsed the Shrine of the Book containing the Dead Sea Scrolls, and saw the giant model of Herodian Jerusalem.

I had some free time in the afternoon where I got to catch up with some friends in Israel, and it was really great to see them.  We ended the day with a trip to Ben Yehuda Street, where Gonen, one of my co-staff, showed me some great places to shop and eat for the future.

A few more days in the Jerusalem area, and then we’re off to see the rest of Israel!  More to come soon!

Israel: Weekend #1

I last checked in with you fine folks a week ago Thursday, when Operation Protective Edge was just a seedling.  Since it has become a full fledged operation, but that hasn’t stopped our ability to see Israel and enjoy the land.

Last Friday was the first Friday of Ramadan, and as such, there were many protests and at times physical riots in the East Jerusalem neighborhood.  As safety is our primary concern, we changed what was supposed to be an day exploring the First Temple period in Jerusalem to a hike and exploration of the terrace farming system that dated back to the time of First Temple in the surrounding Jerusalem area.  We also explored a few water caves in that area.

We had a wonderful lunch, and headed back to Jerusalem to give the USY’ers some time to explore Machane Yehuda, and to buy gifts for their Shabbuddy (Shabbat Buddy).  I went and found my coke in a glass bottle (my favorite), and bought some fresh chocolate rugelach.

Coke on Machane Yehuda (Have to love the photobomb)

Coke on Machane Yehuda (Have to love the photobomb)

We welcomed Shabbat as a group by davening at Yemin Moshe, overlooking the old city of Jerusalem.  We had a very nice Kabbalat Shabbat and Ma’ariv, and headed back to our hostel for Shabbos dinner.  As was my tradition when I was a madrich at Herzl, I told those sitting around me a story on Shabbos evening, this time the story of Yossele the Holy Miser (a Carlebach story, of course).  After dinner, we sang a spirited ruach session, and went to bed for the night.

The next morning I took a group of kids to daven at the Great Synagogue.  Not sure who the Hazan was, but from what I could understand it was a different one than usual, and there was no choir, which I understand they also usually have, but it was still a nice service, and the shul is absolutely beautiful.  Their ark alone had something like 20 Torahs in it, from what I could count.

Services ended very early, so instead of free time, I told our group to grab any food they might have, and meet up on the balcony, where we had a nice oneg and traded off telling our favorite Jewish stories.  We also sang some, and as other groups returned from davening, they joined us as well.

We had kiddush at Rabbi Paul Friedman’s apartment, and both he and his lovely wife welcomed our group into their home with food, stories, and a kiss on the cheek for each of us.  We returned for lunch, ruach, and some much need Minuha (rest time).  During the afternoon free time, I took a group of kids to throw a disc around the near by park.  It was nice to have a Frisbee back in my hands again.  We concluded the night with Pirkei Avot study, mincha, dinner, more ruach, and havdallah.

Sunday, we visited Yad L’Kashish, where elderly people are given food and housing to make a variety of wonderful Judaic products.  While touring the factory, our kids interacted with the elderly, making conversation in Hebrew, English, and even Spanish.  They took pictures with some of the workers, and to see the smiles on both the USY’ers faces and the elderly’s faces was truly heartwarming.

USY'ers speaking Spanish with an elderly person at Yad L'Kashish

USY’ers speaking Spanish with an elderly person at Yad L’Kashish

We spent the afternoon touring Yad Vashem, Israel’s Holocaust Museum.  While the museum is always meaningful, I, and many of the USY’ers, found it hard to concentrate and find meaning in it, especially when we had experienced and learned about many of the sites in person the previous week.  While it would have been a great way to summarize our experience when we first arrived in Israel, doing at the end of the first week lost some of its power and meaning.

Yad Vashem

We then spent Sunday afternoon heading south.

While I have so much more to catch up on, alas, I’m running out of time before Shabbat, so I’ll have to finish updating you all another time!

Have a quiet and peaceful Shabbat!

SHUL REVIEW: Shira Hadasha (Friday Night and Saturday Morning)

Rating: 4/5- A Beautiful Friday Night Service Lacking In Ruach. 5/5 – Best Saturday Morning Service I’ve Been To In A While

Service Attended: Friday Night Services (8/16/2014) and Saturday Morning (8/23/2014)

Slogan: An Orthodox, Feminist Congregation in Jerusalem
Time of Service: Friday-1:15, Saturday- 8:30am-11:30am
Mechitza: Left-Right, shtender in the middle
Women: Lead Kabbalat Shabbat, Torah Service, read Torah and Haftarah
Meals: They asked at the end of the service for anyone who is looking for a place to go for Shabbos dinner (or lunch on Saturday) to go up front and they would match you up. I had a place to go, so I didn’t take advantage of this.
Frequency: Every Friday night and Saturday morning
Family friendly service

Review:

Friday night: The service I attended was really unlike anything I had attended before. The service was for the most part a typical Carlebach style service, and the congregants sung with some really beautiful harmonies, both from the men’s and women’s sides. The room was half to 3/4 full, and I think that even had the room been full, the size of the room still would have been too big to really have an amazing davenning experience. The service felt very slow, and I could tell that there were individuals who really wanted to pick up the pace and bring more ruach and energy to their davenning, but as a community, it just didn’t get there for me.

The women’s side was more full than the men’s, and for the first time, I actually felt like I would rather have been davening with the women.  They just seemed more into the service and to be participating more.

Overall, I would like to go back and see if this was a one time thing, or how they daven.

Saturday Morning: Saturday morning services were wonderful.  There was more ruach, and the harmonies were just as beautiful as always.  The man who led Shacharit had a beautiful voice, and it was very pleasant to sing along and harmonize to.

Women led Torah service and read part of the Torah reading.  What was really special was that there was a Bat Mitzvah, so the Bat Mitzvah girl read the Maftir Aliyah and Haftarah, and she did it beautifully.  This was not a sight I thought I would see in Jerusalem, but it was certainly welcome.  We threw candy at her after her blessing, and the children present ran up and collected as many pieces as they could.

If you like to sing, Shira Hadasha is the place for you.
Shira Hadasha is located at 12 Emek Refaim Street, Jerusalem. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: The Great Synagogue (Saturday Morning)

One of the few remaining synagogues with an old time feel, led by a world renowned Chazzan

Rating: 4/5
Service Attended: Saturday Morning Services (on two separate occasions)
Date: Two separate weekends in July 2014

Type of Service: Orthodox. Chazzan led with all male choir (choir present some weeks).  Also a separate Sephardic service.
Time of Service: Saturday morning typically ending by 11:30
Mechitza: Men on ground floor, women on U-shaped balcony
Meals: No mention of offering meals for visitors.  No kiddush to my knowledge.
Frequency: All weekly services provided

Review: I have attended Saturday morning services twice at The Great Synagogue, and have enjoyed it both times.  To start off with, the building is gorgeous, with stained glass windows, showcases of Judaica lining the walls of the hallway, and the ark held some 20 Torahs.  It’s a huge space, which tends to fill up most mornings. People from all different backgrounds attend, from black hatters, to modern orthodox, to youth groups in town for Shabbat.

The first time I attended, a young chazzan was leading, and there was no choir (I was a little disappointed).  He led a very nice service, and as most typical chazzan led services, participated where I could.  Because of the size of the room however, and the fact that they don’t use microphones, it was hard to hear at times, making it even more difficult to participate.

I made sure the second time I went to go on a week when their Chief Chazzan, the world-renowned Chazzan Haim Adler was leading services.  It did not disappoint. Chazzan Adler is one of the few remaining “old-school” chazzanim, and the presence of the choir lifted us to even higher heights.  The choir, all male, combined traditional liturgical settings of the music with modern settings of liturgy with a skill that sets them beyond any synagogue choir I’ve ever heard.

The Great Synagogue is a must visit, just make sure you look ahead of time at who’s leading the service.  With that said, if you’re looking for a service you can really dig your feet into and sing, this probably isn’t the shul for you.

The Great Synagogue is located at 56 King George Street, ירושלים, 9426222, Israel. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: Yakar- Upstairs Minyan (Friday)

Rating: 4/5- Solid service with lots of ruach, lacking in harmony

Service Attended: Friday Night Services
Date: 8/23/2014

Slogan: Authentic open-minded Judaism, rooted in the riches of tradition and relevant to the issues of the present day
Time of Service: Begins 30 min after sundown
Mechitza: Left-Right, shaliach tzibur in the middle
Women: No leadership
Seating: A few chairs in back in the men’s section, most people stand, significantly more seating in the women’s section.  Get there early if you want a seat.
Meals: They asked at the beginning and end of the service for anyone who is looking for a place to go for Shabbos dinner to go up front and they would match you up. I was matched with a lovely English couple, who had other guests that hailed from various English speaking countries (US, South Africa, Australia).
Frequency: Upstairs minyan is only every Friday night
Family friendly service: Shaliach Tzibur began by announcing that if any child would like to make noise, that they are encouraged, as it’s a form of prayer as well.  I couldn’t agree more.

Review: Yakar is an extremely friendly congregation, and I found it to be quite delightful.  The shaliach tzibur made every person feel welcome as they walked into the men’s side (at times at the expense of actually leading), greeting them with a handshake and a shabbat shalom.  It was very friendly towards kids, and the shaliach tzibur gave out candies to those present.  He also reinterated a number of times that if anyone needed a place for dinner, they would find someone, and he did in my case.

The davening was very solid, filled with ruach but not much harmony.  The shaliach tzibur was good, although at times out of tune, and he would occasionally switch to the harmony part, which would have worked had the congregation been solid enough underneath him to carry the melody at those times.  The service was largely Carlebach, with some different tunes I had not heard before or was unfamiliar with.

Note that the minyan does not have air conditioning, so when it’s warm out, it’s warm in the minyan.  The room filled as the service went on, but I’m told it’s generally a lot more full. Overall, I would like to go back during the year and see what a full minyan is like.  If you’re looking for some really solid, spirited davening, this minyan is a good place to check out.

Yakar is located at 10 Halamed-Hey St., Jerusalem. The entrance is actually off of Kovshei Katamon Street, and is up one flight of stairs on the outside of the building. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: Moreshet Yisrael (Friday)

Rating: 3/5- Typical American Conservative service, with participation in the service likewise

Service Attended: Friday Night Services
Date: 8/29/2014

About: Fully Egalitarian, Masorti (Conservative) congregation
Time of Service: 6:45pm Friday night
Mechitza: None, people can sit wherever
Women: Full participation
Sermon: English on Friday Night, Hebrew (same sermon) on Saturday Morning
Meals: No mention of offers to set people up
Frequency: Weekday mornings, every Friday night, Saturday Morning
Family friendly service: Yes, Rabbi gave out treats to the younger kids present.

Review: Moreshet Yisrael is one of the only fully egalitarian, Masorti (Conservative) synagogues in Israel.  The space is beautiful, but unfortunately acoustically lacking. On the evening I was there, there were around 30 people, which is around 1/4 of the total size of the synagogue, so it was also lacking in the energy necessary to fill the space fully.

As such, it was a typical American Conservative shul in many ways.  Seating was spacious, and prayers mumbled or quietly sung in contrast to the typical Israeli loud kavanah.  They used a guitar (and a tambourine) for Kabbalat Shabbat, and put it away for Ma’ariv.  The shlichei tzibur led a very nice service, but they were largely on their own in the davening.

In the end, if you’re looking for a place that resembles a service back home where men and women participate equally and can sit together, check out Moreshet Yisrael.

Moreshet Yisarel is located at 4 Agron Street, Jerusalem, as part of the Fuchsberg Center Complex. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: Beit Yisrael at Yemin Moshe- Ashkenazi (Saturday Morning)

Rating: 5/5- Friendly, with good kavanah and harmony, and an excellent kiddush

Service Attended: Saturday Morning Services
Date: 8/30/2014

Observance: Orthodox
Time of Service: 8:15am-11am Saturday Morning
Mechitza: To left of men’s section, shaliach tzibur in the middle of men’s section. Sizable women’s section
Women: No leadership
Meals: Known for its kiddush after the meal, which was very nice.  No mention of meals at the service, but their newsletter says to email Valerie Adler to request a meal
Frequency: Weekday Shacharit, every Friday Night, Saturday Morning, and Saturday evening
Family friendly service: While there were families, there weren’t too many, and were not a focus by any means
Sermon: English sermon, announcements in Hebrew and English

Review: Beit Yisrael, also known as the Ashkenazi shul at Yemin Moshe, was one of my favorites so far.  Great combination of kavanah and harmony, and the voices beautifully filled the space.  I went with a female friend (who is conservative), who also enjoys it there. Many English-speaking people daven there, so it can feel very homey for the English speaker.

English sermon, with Hebrew and English announcements.  Very friendly people, and I was invited to join them for High Holidays by one of the leaders of the congregation after the service.  The highlight is definitely the kiddush afterwards, which had a number of delicious treats, a great lasagna, and some tuna and egg salad.

Come for the food, get some great davening to boot.  I definitely recommend Beit Yisrael.

Beit Yisrael is located at 2 Pele Yoetz Street, Yemin Moshe, Jerusalem. There are signs pointing you to the Ashkenazi shul when you get into Yemin Moshe. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: Nava Tehila (Friday Night)

Rating: 6/5- By far the best Friday Night service I’ve been to in my life.  Lively, musical, spiritual.

Service Attended: Friday Night Services (September 5, 2014)

About: Egalitarian and inclusive, they use varied instruments and meditation type melodies to elevate prayer
Time of Service: Friday, 6:00-8:00 pm
Mechitza: None, open seating
Women: Full participation
Meals: No mention
Frequency: One Friday per month, plus select High Holiday services, see calendar here
Language: All kavanot (talking) in Hebrew and translated in English

Review: Nava Tehila is the idealized vision of prayer and instrumentation coming together in joyful bliss.  Rabbi Ruth Gan Kagan set the tone for the night by specifying that there would be absolutely no talking between prayers, but only singing and silence, and that if you came to just sit around, you were in the wrong place.  The kehilla was comprised of a very young crowd, and I recognized a number of students from the Conservative Yeshiva and Pardes present.

The seating was comprised of concentric circles (which fill up fast), with the majority of the inner circle belonging to the Nava Tehila band. One of the things that made Nava Tehila unique was the variety of instrumentation; there were guitars, an upright bass, flute, saxophone, cajon, and bongo, along with a number of singers. For Kabbalat Shabbat, they used selected lines from each of the psalms set to original tunes, in a meditative, repetitious way that lent to the entire kehilla singing and harmonizing together.  Each melody would last 5-10 minutes, and there would be absolute silence for a number of seconds between each prayer.  Bookending these psalms were the full versions of Yedid Nefesh and Lecha Dodi.

Kabbalat Shabbat ended around 7:30, and at that point the option was given for people to leave if they wanted, or stay for Ma’ariv, and many people left, which made it kind of an awkward transition, where by Ma’ariv was made less important. Instruments were put away for Ma’ariv (I would have preferred they be kept, since they had played into Shabbat already), but it was nice davening as well.  It ended with the usage of instruments for one last song at the end.

All said, while the traditionalists out there might not enjoy this, those willing to experiment with an alternative type davening will have a transformative experience that will have them wishing Nava Tehila met every week.

Nava Tehila is located In Kol Haneshama at 1 Asher Street, Jerusalem, in Speitzer Hall. Nava Tehila is also a band, so check out their music.  Also, be sure to check the calendar as they play occasionally at Tachana Rishona on Friday afternoons. For more information, visit their website.

SHUL REVIEW: Kol Haneshama (Saturday Morning)

Rating: 2/5- As a friend of mine so eloquently described it, it was just “bleh”

Service Attended: Saturday Morning Services
Date: September 6, 2014

Observance: Reform
Time of Service: 9:15am-11:30 am on Saturday Morning
Mechitza: None, open seating
Women: Full participation
Meals: Very light kiddush (two cakes).  No offer of meals
Frequency: Every Friday Night and Saturday Morning
Family friendly service: Friendly to families.  There’s a play area at the side of the sanctuary for kids
Sermon: Hebrew sermon, announcements in Hebrew and English
Neighborhood: Baka’a

Review: Kol Haneshama is one of, if not the only, Reform prayer community in Jerusalem, and one of the few in all of Israel. It’s located in a beautiful building in a beautiful sanctuary that fits around 150 in Baka’a. Unfortunately, it was maybe a third full on this morning, and the crowd gathered was rather aging.

I arrived before the beginning of the service, and we waited until there was a minyan. While the people there were very friendly, and I was given an aliyah, I found the service very disjointed and the nusach (melodies) very inconsistent. We’d start by reading a prayer together out loud, getting to a line where someone at some point wrote a song using those words, and then we stared singing the song, regardless of whether it fit into any nusach.  In the span of P’sukei D’zimrah and Shacharit, we covered ‘Stand By Me’, multiple Carlebach songs, some tune that sounding like it could have been taken from a musical, and other tunes to which I found it quite hard to sing along with, let alone harmonize with. Keeping with the more American style davening, prayers were typically sung together, as opposed to the more Israeli/Orthodox style of davening out loud at your own pace with in a framework. The entirety of the service was, as my friend who grew up reform described it, just kind of ‘bleh’.

If you are looking to be a part of an egalitarian service with somewhat non-traditional nusach in line with the American Reform movement, than you might consider Kol Haneshama.  It also starts later than many congregations, so that is nice.

Kol Haneshama is located at 1 Asher Street, Jerusalem, in Baka’a. For more information, visit their website.

How To Get A Student Visa In Israel

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Ah, the Misrad Hapnim.  Everyone’s favorite Israeli bureaucratic organization. If you are as unfortunate as I was to not get a Student Visa before you came to the country, and you’re staying in the country for more than 3 months, you’ll inevitably have to take on this daunting challenge.  And if you’ve talked to anyone who has dealt with Misrad Hapnim in the past, you’ve probably heard horror stories like my roommate who’s been 6 times with no luck.  And while you could attempt to forgo the whole visa step and live as an illegal immigrant, you may prefer to go by the book.  If that’s you, then you’ve come to the right place. This is ‘How To Get A Student Visa In Israel’ (specifically in Jerusalem).

  1. Contact your program, as they will be able to help you with paperwork and likely have helped other students before
  2. From your program, obtain a letter in Hebrew on official letterhead signed by the head of the program stating the following (Note: This definitely works with a Yeshiva.  Not as sure with other programs):
    1. Your name
    2. Your passport number
    3. A statement that you will be studying at the Yeshiva
    4. A statement confirming you are Jewish AND that your mother is Jewish (especially if you’ve converted, this is the easiest way to prove that you are Jewish.  Don’t go through the process of producing conversion documents and such.  What they don’t know won’t kill them.)
      1. If you’re not Jewish, you can still get a student visa.  Talk to your trip provider on the best way to do so
    5. A statement containing the start and end dates of your studies, as well as a statement of the hours and days of the week that you study (ie. 9-18:00)
      1. Make sure your dates are of the Gregorian calendar, not the Hebrew Calendar
    6. A signature from the Rosh Yeshiva
  3. You’ll need to get a passport picture.  There are many places you can do this, including but not limited to photo places on Ben Yehuda and right next to the Jerusalem Misrad Hapnim.
  4. There’s a form that you will need to fill out, but the form available online is slightly out of date and can just be filled in there.
  5. Bring your Passport
  6. You may need to pay, but it depends on the person you talk to.  I’ve seen it should cost 165 NIS.  I didn’t have to pay anything.
  7. Find the location of the nearest Misrad Hapnim (you can’t go anywhere you want, you have to go in their district)
    1. In Jerusalem, this is Misrad Hapnim on 1 Sholmtsiyon HaMalka (NOTE the spelling.  Searching anything else in Google will either get you no results, or send you near the Knesset.  Trust me, I did it…)
  8. Attempt to figure out their hours.  Expect to fail.
    1. At the time of this writing, Misrad Hapnim in Jerusalem is open for Visa acquisition on Sun-Tues, Thurs, from 8am-12pm.  That’s it.  Don’t try to go any time else.  This may change at their discretion
    2. If you get there right at 7:55, you can probably walk right in, and not have too long of a wait inside
  9. Try to look as Jewish as possible. This sounds awful, but they do tend to profile, and have been known in the past to make it hard on the lives of those blond haired, blue eyed Jews
  10. Once you get through security, make your way up to Kuma 1, the first floor. This is the Visa office
    1. To get your form, wait in line for the front desk. They’ll give you the proper form (you’ll want an A2 visa).  Fill it out
    2. I was told by others that I would need to make an appointment, but on arriving to get said appointment, they said just to go in and wait for the second desk to be open.  Even if you’re supposed to get an appointment, DON’T.  Read on
    3. When ready, wait in line for one of the desks.  It doesn’t really matter which one, but I had a great experience with the lady at desk 2. I would recommend waiting for her
    4. When it’s your turn, tell the person at the desk that you had been in there previously, and that they told you to come back once you updated your paperwork.  They do this frequently to most people, and they probably won’t remember you anyways.  This way, you’ll avoid having to have an appointment.
    5. If it happens to fail, feel free to try to go to another person your next time in
  11. It’s very likely you won’t be successful on your first try, so don’t despair, I got it on my second try.  As I said earlier, my roommate is on try 6 and counting
  12. Some notes
    1. Expect to be yelled at at least once. It’s part of the experience
    2. Feel free to try to game the system, especially as I described above
    3. Israeli bureaucracy sucks.  Expect to fail at least once, if not multiple times
    4. A smile goes a long way

That should be all you need.  Feel free to share your own stories below, and maybe they’ll help someone else as well! Best of luck!